What began as a simple pop-up market to celebrate their photography has transformed into something much larger for Ismael Calderon and his husband Daniel on Capitol Hill.
One year after opening Bonito Café y Mercadito at Melrose and E Olive Way, the Bakersfield transplants have filled a distinct gap in Capitol Hill’s coffee landscape, creating a community hub that weaves together Latino and queer culture while reimagining traditional flavors through an innovative lens. From the Calderon’s first space in the old Rainier Brewery, where Aqui photography studio first sparked this unexpected journey, Ismael reflects on how a modest celebration evolved into one of the neighborhood’s most distinctive gathering places.
Bonito’s origin story begins with that impromptu celebration two years ago at the opening of Aqui. What started as a one-off event featuring about 10 vendors quickly grew into something more significant when attendees kept asking when the next market would be.
“There was such a vibe, and there was such a warm feeling that people felt when they came,” Ismael Calderon recalls. “Everyone was like, okay, cool. When are you gonna have another one?”
That market, focused on POC and queer vendors, has grown. This summer, they hosted over 15,000 people at the waterfront in what Calderon called the biggest event of its kind. The success of these markets inspired the couple as they leapt into brick-and-mortar cafe culture and retail.
“We wanted a market that felt something close to us, being queer and Latino,” Calderon explains. “We wanted something that represented us.”
Step inside Bonito and you’ll notice this isn’t your typical Seattle coffee shop. The music is louder, the atmosphere more festive, and everything from the menu to the wall art celebrates Latino culture.
The menu showcases Calderon’s interpretation of flavors from his Central Valley California upbringing.
Their signature drink, “Qué Bonito,” features café de olla syrup, a traditional Mexican spiced coffee preparation, combined with horchata cold foam in a latte. “Being from Central Valley in California, we’re surrounded by a Latino community everywhere,” Calderon notes. “There is a very strong Latino community in Seattle, but we wanted to create a space where we can all come together and celebrate.”
Baristas are encouraged to engage with customers, explain ingredients, and share the stories behind traditional preparations. For many visitors who didn’t grow up with horchata, it becomes an educational experience.
“A lot of people ask, ‘what is horchata?’ or ‘what is café de olla?’” Calderon explains. “It’s a really beautiful position to be in, to be able to explain. Café de olla literally translates to coffee in a pot. What we did here is we took everything that we would steep in the pot of coffee, and we’re now making it into a syrup where we can enjoy iced drinks or hot drinks.”
The “El Mercadito” section pays homage to their market origins, featuring products from vendors who have been part of their events from the beginning. Unlike traditional retail partnerships, Bonito doesn’t buy wholesale, vendors set their own prices and receive payment directly, with Bonito simply providing the space.
CHS reported here as Bonito debuted last fall later than originally hoped in a process slowed by the usual challenges around small businesses managing paperwork, permits, and contractors. The opening was boosted by a crowdfunding campaign and support from the Office of Economic Development as the Calderons took on the challenges of transitioning the in-demand space that most recently was home to a Glasswing plant shop and was once home to John John’s Gameroom.
Operating a prominently Latino and queer-identified business comes with unique challenges, especially in the current political climate. Calderon acknowledges the “double-edged sword” of creating safe spaces for everyone while ensuring community safety.
“With the current administration, we have to really be careful in creating these safe spaces,” he says. “It does come with a level of fear, but we rely on each other to support one another.”
The cafe has implemented clear policies, including signs stating that ICE agents are not allowed to enter, and maintains what Calderon describes as “very vocal” positioning on immigration issues affecting their community.
Even the business licensing process presented hurdles. “Opening a brick and mortar, we’ve never done something like this,” Calderon admits. “It is very hard. There’s a lot of hoops to jump through, and there’s really no streamlined process. You’re talking to one department in the city and then another department, but they don’t communicate.”
Despite these challenges, he emphasizes finding community within the process and advocates for making it easier for other “brown business owners” to establish themselves.
Nearby, the Starbucks recently suddenly shut down its massive Capitol Hill Roastery. While Calderon expresses sympathy for displaced workers, he sees an opportunity for local businesses to fill the void left by the Seattle coffee landmark.
“Being someone who has been laid off before, I understand the hurt that they feel,” he says. “But being able to showcase more of what we’re doing here, now people visiting can experience other beautiful, great coffee shops in Seattle and not feel like they were all just going there.” Being at such a prominent location, it creates a very good corner to have something prominent showing a cultural space in Seattle,” Calderon said.
Throughout Bonito’s first year, their philosophy of “community over competition” has become a defining characteristic. Instead of trying to revolutionize Seattle’s already robust coffee scene, they’ve carved out their own distinctive niche centered on cultural celebration and community building.
The space has been busy with workshops, DJ sets, and community events, including a recent gathering for the Northwest Immigration Rights Project. Customers have responded, drawn to both the cultural education the cafe offers and its genuinely welcoming atmosphere.
“When people come in and ask for a simple vanilla latte, I’m always like, ‘that’s what you get other places, right? Let’s try something different,’” Calderon laughs. “Some people are really excited to try something new. Some people stay in their comfort zone but now know we have other things they might like for next time.”
As Bonito enters its second year, Calderon and his husband have created what they set out to build: a space where community comes first, coffee comes second, and everyone feels welcome to explore, ask questions, and celebrate culture together. In a neighborhood known for its diverse small businesses, Bonito has found its place as a bridge between Seattle’s coffee culture and the Latino traditions of the Calderons.
Bonito Café y Mercadito is located at 1351 E Olive Way. Follow @bonito______________ for updates.
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